I have wanted to go to Lisbon for years. Unfortunately the right airfare never surfaced. Recently, however, the stars aligned and I was on my way to see Lisbon in a weekend. Unfortunately, bad weather and overfull flights resulted in an expensive and long three-hour taxi ride to an alternate departure city (paid by the airline). Schedule disruptions and changing airlines back and forth left us with only one day to explore this incredibly scenic city. The good news is that both my travel companion and I scored a voucher for future travel in exchange for our disrupted trip, making our trip nearly free.
Arriving early on a Saturday morning, we were pleased that our hotel room was available. The Sheraton Lisbon, located in the heart of the city, turned out to be a good choice for exploration. Secured with points and cash, it was also a good value. The lounge featured happy hour with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, and a nice morning breakfast. Our list of sights to visit was short but important; we wanted to take the funicular up to Barrio Alto (a traditional old part of the city), visit a special church that contained the most expensive chapel in the world, and explore the city’s castle. Oh yes, and we planned to eat along the way.
Barrio Alto featured narrow cobblestone streets, unique shops, and traditional eateries. It also offered a panoramic view of the city of Lisbon from the hilltop park terrace. Such terraces, sidewalks and park walkways are not cement but inlaid stone tiles, each area of the city sporting its own design. Taking the funicular up the hill (it’s one of three in the city), you can then wander your way back down into the main part of the city. As hunger set in, we stopped for lunch at a traditional Portuguese restaurant. Our meal of fresh octopus, more tender than you can imagine, creamed spinach, oh so fresh, and mussels with caramelized onions was divine.
There are several efficient ways to explore Lisbon; by Segway with a guide, the new GoGo car, a small car you rent with its own personality and sense of humor, public transport including the Metro, trams, and buses, several tourist bus options, and by walking.
Gastronomically, Lisbon delivers affordable, high quality cuisine; the freshest seafood ever, homemade Portuguese meats and sausages, and hearty soups. Our favorite, however, and one that will cause re-visit cravings is the small egg custard tarts called pasteis de nata. More savory than sweet; we fell in love with the unique pastry at a café located right on the steps down from Barrio Alto. Warm and directly from the oven, I can still taste that first bite.
A visit to Saint Rogue Church in the Barrio Alto area was next on our list. The church has eight chapels and while the church is plain on the exterior, the inside is anything but. Built in sections in Rome then shipped to Lisbon, the ornate gold, silver, and bronze work inside is magnificent. Add in the precious stone artwork, carvings, and statues and you’ve got one grand and elaborate sight.
Art is everywhere. You can expect to see paintings of animals on the cement pilings when you get near the zoo, restaurants ornately decorated with representations of their food offerings and elaborate graffiti that covers entire buildings. I suspect the Portuguese have always been artful souls, as evidenced by the ornate and colorful tiles that adorn the historic buildings. In an economically challenged environment, Lisbon’s beauty is not compromised. It is gracious, artistic, and clean with surprises around every corner. Who but the Portuguese would build a beautiful outdoor elevator in the space between two buildings?
Every city needs a castle and Lisbon has a very special one. Castelo St. Jorge, located appropriately high above the city, offers expansive views and a surrounding park for relaxing strolls. The castle is perfectly preserved and as a visitor, you can climb to the very top of the fortress to look out for approaching enemies. You’ll only find a charming cityscape, the flowing waters of the Tagus River and the ocean, and a view that will awe, but you could pretend that the cargo barge you see is a threat to the city and ready the troops. You’re in a perfect position to do so. The area surrounding the castle has rolling narrow streets filled with cafes and shops. Don’t miss the Alfama terrace for photo worthy views.
While our visit to Lisbon was superb, it was short, thus our list of activities is even longer for our next trip: Explore the Jeronimos Monastery, visit the tile museum, listen to Fado music at a club, tour a dungeon, venture inside one or two more significant churches, experience the waterfront nightlife, eat some more of that wonderful seafood, and do a graffiti tour. That’s just the start; Lisbon offers so much we have no idea what additional surprises it holds for our next visit.
Photos courtesy of Karyn O.
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